Sisters and Super Smalls co-founders Maria Dueñas Jacobs (right) and Bianca Gottesman (left) have built their brand on the belief that luxury and play can coexist beautifully in children’s lives. Courtesy of Super Smalls

This Q&A is part of Observer’s Expert Insights series, where industry leaders, innovators and strategists distill years of experience into direct, practical takeaways and deliver clarity on the issues shaping their industries. In the competitive world of children’s retail, Maria Duenas Jacobs and Bianca Gottesman prove that luxury and play coexist beautifully. As co-founders and sisters behind Super Smalls, Maria and Bianca have transformed a simple observation—that children crave magic in their everyday moments—into a thriving brand that’s reimagined kids’ products since 2019. With their deep expertise in translating gemstone culture and jewelry heritage for young audiences, Observer spoke with the duo about how they’re democratizing luxury through education, storytelling and hands-on play. Their latest venture, The Super Smalls Super Book of Gems, is out in October 2025 under Union Square & Co.

What makes a gemstone culturally resonant, beautiful and meaningful across time?

A technical answer to this has to do with how gems are valued for rarity, durability and beauty. But beyond that, gemstones are powerful because they live in many worlds simultaneously. They’re incredible natural marvels—formed deep in the earth through heat, pressure, tree resin and starlight. They’re also canvases for art and design—cut, polished, and set to capture light and imagination, whether by an ancient craftsman, a house like Cartier or a designer like Marlo Laz. And then there’s the layer that makes them timeless: sentiment. Gems are passed down, gifted, worn for protection or luck. They carry myths of superpowers, lightning bolts and gods’ tears—but also the very real memory of a grandmother’s ring or a birthday treasure. They carry the stories of our world.

What made you want to create a book as the next evolution of Super Smalls, and why now?

Storytelling has always been our spark—it’s the passion running through everything we create. And of course, we’re completely obsessed with magic, and just as obsessed with gems. We’ve always imagined Super Smalls as a world built around joy, imagination and connection. A book felt like the perfect way to deepen that world. We wanted to give kids and grown-ups something to slow down with and explore together—a shared experience that lives off-screen and sparks wonder. And honestly, gems are the original storytellers. It felt like the right moment to capture their magic in a new form.

How did you think about translating tactile sparkle into the flat pages of a book?

We knew we couldn’t just tell people about sparkle—we had to show it. So we drew from the masters—Cartier, Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels and other iconic houses and designers—because who better to prove how raw stones become true works of art? Pairing those jaw-dropping pieces with rich photography, bold illustrations and playful, kid-friendly language lets us bring that tactile magic onto the page. Each spread is designed to feel like you’ve cracked open a treasure box—full of science, history and a little bit of wonder—even if you can’t actually touch the gems.

Educational infographic about the Mohs hardness scale showing various gemstones arranged from softest to hardest, including amber, pearl, turquoise, quartz, topaz, emerald, ruby, sapphire, and diamond, with colorful illustrations and explanatory text on a dark starry backgroundA page from “The Super Smalls Super Book of Gems” demonstrates how complex geological concepts like the Mohs hardness scale can be made accessible and engaging for young readers through vibrant design and kid-friendly explanations. Courtesy of Super Smalls

In creating The Super Smalls Super Book of Gems, what surprised you most about the myths, meanings or misunderstood history of birthstones?

What surprised us most was realizing there isn’t one fixed list of birthstones—it changes depending on culture and history. In Western tradition, they’re tied to the month you’re born. In contrast, in many Eastern traditions, birthstones were matched to your zodiac sign or a celestial body, like a planet or star, believed to influence your life. The idea was that wearing a gem linked to your star sign or ruling planet would actually enhance your natural strengths—like cosmic jewelry superpowers.  

Ancient cultures believed gems could protect you, bring luck or even cure nightmares. Some legends are wonderfully wild—like that amethysts could quicken your intelligence, emeralds could improve your eyesight, or diamonds could form when lightning bolts struck the earth. 

How do major jewelry houses like Van Cleef or Bulgari use narrative and fantasy to build value around stones?

Luxury houses are master storytellers. They know a stone is beautiful, but a stone with a story becomes unforgettable. Whether it’s the tale of how it was formed, how it was found, who wore it or what it symbolizes, the depth and fantasy elevate it. Kids crave story and magic, too, and they deserve objects that come with meaning.

What should a consumer look for when introducing children to fine jewelry or jewelry culture?

Kids are natural magpies drawn to sparkle, color and stories. So, the best way to introduce them is to focus on jewelry as a form of culture and storytelling, not just as something fancy or expensive. A birthstone ring, for example, connects them to history, science and even a little magic. There’s the natural, scientific marvel of how gems are formed, the art and design of how they’re cut and set, and then the deeply sentimental layer of who wore it before you, or why it was given. Sharing those layers helps kids see jewelry as part of a bigger world of creativity, heritage and self-expression—not something off-limits or intimidating. 

Two-page spread from a children's book about diamonds showing various diamond jewelry pieces, facts about diamond formation, color spectrum information, and technical specifications, with bright colorful layout and kid-friendly graphicsThe diamond section of “The Super Smalls Super Book of Gems” combines luxury jewelry from high-end brands with accessible scientific information, making gemology education feel like treasure hunting rather than studying. Courtesy of Super Smalls

How do you see the relationship between geology, gemology and storytelling evolving in an era of lab-grown stones and A.I.-enhanced design?

The world has been changing for millions of years, and most of the gems we see have taken centuries to form. They’re a part of our planet’s history—and our own evolution—so in a way, they’re the wisest of us all. The people who cut and craft them, and all of us who celebrate with them or express ourselves through them, are really the keepers of their beauty and longevity.

The magic doesn’t disappear as the landscape shifts with lab-grown stones or A.I. design. There will always be awe in the natural wonder of how gems are formed deep in the earth or how humans have managed to emulate that. And there will always be beauty in turning them into something that captures light and imagination. A lab-grown diamond can’t erase the centuries of myth and meaning, and A.I. can’t replace the sentiment of a jewel passed from generation to generation. The science and tools evolve, but the human connection—that sense of wonder, memory, and meaning—makes gems timeless.

What’s your favorite underdog gem?

Citrine! We love it because it’s yellow (sometimes golden!) and radiates happiness. It’s been celebrated throughout history as a gem of positivity, confidence and creativity—a little burst of sunshine you can wear. Most of the citrines you see on the market today are heat-treated amethysts or smoky quartz made to mimic that golden glow, proving how coveted the look of genuine citrine has always been. It’s one of the few gems that naturally shine in its golden hue without enhancements when you find the real thing. And for anyone who adores vintage jewelry, citrine is a star—you’ll spot it in bold Art Deco cocktail rings and glamorous mid-century pieces set in yellow gold. 

The jewelry industry thrives on exclusivity. How do you reconcile that heritage of ‘hands-off luxury’ with Super Smalls’ mission to make it child’s play?

That’s exactly why we wanted to do it—the emotions created by gems and jewelry shouldn’t be off-limits to anyone. They’re natural wonders and incredible works of art, but at their core, they’ve always been about self-expression, memories and joy. Kids understand that instinctively: they see sparkle and just want to PLAY. Super Smalls was born from that impulse—to take something traditionally seen as “hands-off luxury” and reimagine it as “hands-on magic.”

And the way we do that is by translating the feeling of fine jewelry into playful, kid-first experiences: oversized cocktail rings that belong in a dress-up box, gem sticker kits and bead kits that let kids design their own “creations,” or a book that pairs Cartier and Bulgari jewels with science, jokes and sparkle. We’re not taking away from the heritage of fine jewelry—we’re celebrating it while showing that sparkle isn’t off-limits. By giving kids tools to imagine, learn, experiment and create, we make jewelry culture feel like it’s for them too—because joy and imagination are the real luxury.

Dark-themed book spread titled "History's Most Famous Stones" featuring images of legendary diamonds including the Hope Diamond, Cullinan Diamond, and Crown Jewels, with colorful borders and detailed descriptions of each gem's historyFamous gemstones throughout history come alive through storytelling that weaves together science, legend and cultural significance. Courtesy of Super Smalls

You made your name in a world where touching the merchandise was discouraged. Now you’re letting kids wear it to preschool. What clicked?

Ha, so true! That’s precisely what clicked for us—realizing that the magic of jewelry doesn’t come from keeping it locked away; it comes from what happens when people wear it. Jewelry is meant to be lived in: It marks our milestones, holds our memories and sparks joy in the everyday. Kids are the perfect reminder of that—they don’t overthink it; they pile it on, twirl around and let it make them feel amazing.

With Super Smalls, we wanted to give them that freedom. Instead of “look, but don’t touch,” we flipped the script to “try it on, play with it, make it yours.” That’s where the joy really lives, and our pieces are as durable as dazzling. Sparkle should never feel off-limits—even in preschool.

Super Smalls feels even more like a tiny empire of fantasy. Was the goal always to build more than a product?

Absolutely. From the very beginning, the heart of Super Smalls has been storytelling through play. We wanted kids to have a way to express themselves—not just by wearing something sparkly, but by inventing entire worlds around it. Putting on a necklace can be an express train to a make-believe experience—suddenly it’s your first day as President of the United States (my daughter’s favorite pretend scenario!). A bead kit isn’t just a craft; it’s a starter kit for running your jewelry business. A ring can transform into a secret key that unlocks an imaginary kingdom. Suddenly, the ordinary is infused with unlimited possibilities and the energy to play.

The more we build, the more we offer kids so they can build, too—engaging with their creativity in new and surprising ways.

That’s why the book felt like such a natural next chapter. We’re giving kids a tool packed with science, myths and personal birthday connections—something that offers digestible information and sparks curiosity, becoming a springboard for their own world-building. Super Smalls was never meant to be just a line of products—it’s always been about creating opportunities for kids to dream wildly, explore and see their own magic reflected back at them.

Is this about jewelry or giving kids their first taste of identity, performance and power?

I like your word power—that’s exactly it. For us, it’s about letting kids feel capable and confident, and permitting them to play in their own way. So much of childhood is spent being told what to do, where to sit, when to be quiet. With Super Smalls, we wanted to create something that flips that dynamic, where the sparkle is theirs to command, and the stories they dream up are entirely their own.

Jewelry happens to be one of the vehicles, but the bigger idea is about identity and expression, as you said. When a child piles on accessories, creates their own bespoke sunglasses or vanity sets, or sits alongside an adult to compare birthstones and superpowers, they’re experimenting with who they are, how they want to be seen, and what brings them joy. It’s theater, it’s art, it’s ambient education, it’s a little experiment in selfhood—wrapped up in play. That’s what keeps it meaningful.

Children are unpredictable product testers. What have your daughters taught you about design, branding or ambition that the fashion world never did? 

They’ve taught us that joy can’t be faked—if a product doesn’t excite them, it won’t excite others. They’ve also reminded us that kids want ownership—they want to create, remix, play their way.  

There’s a fine line between empowering young consumers and manufacturing desire. How do you think about aspiration without tipping into adultification?

This is something we take really seriously as founders and parents ourselves. Our goal is never to push kids to grow up faster—it’s to honor where they are. We want kids to feel powerful as kids, not mini adults.

Does editorial still have cultural authority?

Yes, but it shares that authority now. It’s less top-down and more community-driven. Kids might first spot something in a magazine, but the real connection happens when they experience it in their own lives. They then carry it into their circles, where it becomes part of a shared culture. That democratization is exciting. It’s more engaging because many more voices are involved. Authority looks different now.

What’s one luxury fashion truth that absolutely does not apply to kids’ style? And one surprising rule that does?

The one that doesn’t apply is minimalism. Kids want maximalist everything—more color, sparkle, layers and fun. The one that does: confidence is the ultimate accessory. Whether you’re 5 or 55, wearing something that makes you feel amazing shows.

From Pre-K to Cartier: Making Gemstone Culture Child’s Play


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