As legacy retailers struggle, Studs’ Anna Harman breaks down what today’s piercing customer actually wants, and why. Photo by Tory Williams/Courtesy of Studs
This Q&A is part of Observer’s Expert Insights series, where industry leaders, innovators and strategists distill years of experience into direct, practical takeaways and deliver clarity on the issues shaping their industries. As legacy mall staples falter and consumer expectations reset, the jewelry and piercing sector is undergoing a quiet yet consequential transformation, driven less by price or trend cycles and more by experience, trust and self-expression.
Few brands sit closer to that shift than Studs. Founded to modernize ear piercing for a new generation, the company has helped reframe what was once a commoditized, often rushed service into a design-forward, hospitality-led experience. At the center of that evolution is Anna Harman, co-founder and CEO of Studs, who has built the business around needle-based piercing, rigorous training standards and a deeply researched understanding of how Gen Z and millennials approach identity, style and retail.
Harman’s perspective comes at a moment of inflection. Claire’s recent bankruptcy filing has reignited debate about the health of the commercial jewelry industry, but as Harman explains, the decline of one dominant player doesn’t signal a shrinking market. Rather, it underscores a generational handoff. Today’s consumer is older, more informed and far less willing to compromise on safety, materials or aesthetics. They arrive armed with terminology learned online, references saved from social feeds and a clear expectation that piercing should feel personal, celebratory and well-designed.
Under Harman’s leadership, Studs has leaned into piercing as a long-term creative practice, popularizing the idea of “Earscaping” and building systems that support consistency at scale. The result is a business model that sits at the intersection of jewelry, beauty and lifestyle, shaped as much by digital communities as by in-person experience.
Claire’s bankruptcy filing has put a spotlight on the jewelry and piercing sector. What does their collapse reveal about the state of the commercial jewelry industry today?
The ear piercing market is actually booming, it’s just incredibly fragmented. Countless national retail chains and local boutiques offer ear piercings with guns (sometimes called “hand-pressurized devices”). Claire’s is still where a lot of people have their first nostalgic piercing moment, and that’s important. But once the customer ages up, typically into their late teens and twenties, they’re looking for a more elevated and personalized needle piercing experience. That’s where Studs comes in.
In a fragmented jewelry market, Harman is betting on trust, training and personalization to fuel growth. Courtesy Studs
Beyond Claire’s, what broader consumer and retail trends are reshaping how people, especially younger consumers, approach jewelry and piercing?
We’re seeing ear piercing follow the same cultural patterns as beauty and fashion, trends now spread through social media, celebrity influence and niche communities, and customers show up wanting the looks they’ve discovered online. People arrive with specific looks they have seen online and a strong sense of how they want to express themselves.
Workplace norms have also shifted dramatically over the past decade, especially post-pandemic and as Gen Z has entered the workforce. Multiple piercings, tattoos, and more individualized style used to be considered “taboo” in many professional environments. That’s no longer the case. People are bringing their full selves to work, and Earscaping®—getting and styling multiple ear piercings—has become an accessible, expressive way to do that.
Digital behavior plays a significant role. Gen Z and young millennials research thoroughly, learn piercing terminology online and expect brands to meet them with education and transparent information about materials, healing and safety.
Where do you see the strongest demand in the jewelry sector right now, and which segments are under the most pressure?
We’re seeing the strongest demand in high-quality, everyday jewelry—pieces you can wear 24/7 without thinking twice. Our flatback studs continue to be bestsellers because they’re comfortable, secure and safe for sensitive ears. It’s a big shift away from traditional butterfly backs that poke or get caught. We’re also seeing clickers become the new go-to instead of classic hoops, especially for customers with more advanced cartilage piercings. And interest in lab-grown stones keeps rising because they offer the sparkle and longevity people want at a much more accessible price.
Because so many of our customers have five or more piercings, they’re approaching their ears a bit like a canvas. They’re not looking for matching pairs—they’re curating a whole Earscape®. That’s why we focus on singles and keep the assortment tight and intentional rather than offering hundreds of overwhelming options.
And honestly, we’re seeing this play out in real time in our studios. We’ll have customers come in and say, “I want another piercing because I just bought these amazing designer earrings and I need another spot to wear them.” Fine jewelry designers are styling their campaigns with multiple piercings and stacked looks, and consumers are coming in excited to recreate that energy. It’s been fun to watch that inspiration translate directly into behavior.
Zooming out, the broader jewelry market is definitely feeling some pressure—rising gold prices, the rapid adoption of lab-grown gems and a more discerning, research-driven shopper. Today’s customer is reading reviews, watching videos and wanting clear quality standards before they buy. The brands struggling most are the ones that haven’t adapted to that level of scrutiny.
Today’s consumers, Harman argues, are increasingly treating their ears as a canvas, building a cohesive look over time. Courtesy of Studs
How do you see piercing fitting into the jewelry industry’s evolution? Has it shifted from a commoditized service to an experience-driven business?
Absolutely. Piercing has become an experience people often share with friends or family, or choose to mark a moment in their lives. Expectations around safety, piercing jewelry design and overall vibe are significantly higher than they were ten or fifteen years ago.
Before Studs, there was no national brand focused on needle piercing that combined hospitality, education and design in a consistent and welcoming environment. The experience itself is now a fundamental part of how people engage with jewelry, and that shift has expanded the category overall.
Studs has branded piercing as a lifestyle and self-expression category rather than a commodity. How critical is that repositioning to your long-term success?
We saw that people were approaching their piercings as a long-term creative process.
Customers come back to Studs to build their Earscape® over time—months and years—it’s not just for a one-and-done service. We trademarked the term Earscaping® soon after we launched the business to define the art and science of decorating your ear with ear piercings and earrings. Our customers have between five and seven piercings, and once a consumer gets pierced at Studs, 40 percent return for another purchase with us.
What are the risks of scaling a service like piercing, and how is Studs navigating quality control and consumer trust at scale?
The biggest risk is inconsistency—in safety, technique or customer experience. There is no national piercing licensing process or beauty school. That’s why we built Studs Academy, our custom piercing apprenticeship program. It’s a paid, multi-week training that covers sterilization, bedside manner, precision technique and safety. We’ve trained hundreds of piercers across the country through a deeply structured curriculum to ensure an excellent piercing and hospitality experience across our studios nationwide. Taking this level of care ensures that no matter which Studs studio someone visits, they receive the same high standard of care. Trust is built through expertise, clear communication and consistent execution, and we invest heavily in all three.
Studs’ everyday jewelry offerings, designed for continuous wear and long healing periods, reflect, Harman says, the shift toward comfort, quality and durability in modern piercing. Photo by Tory Williams/Courtesy of Studs
How do you think about balancing accessibility and affordability with premium positioning in piercing and jewelry?
We keep our standards premium and our pricing transparent. Piercings start at $35 for one, $50 for two and scale up, and jewelry ranges from $35 to $120+. That lets customers participate at whatever level feels right for them. Premium, to me, is about expertise and safety. Accessibility is about making it easy for people to express themselves without a massive price barrier.
Who is the “core consumer” driving growth in piercing today, and how different are their expectations compared to past generations who grew up with Claire’s?
Our core customer is in their mid-twenties— the median age is 27—and they already have five to seven piercings. While we certainly do first lobes, most people are coming in for their fifth or sixth placement, often something more advanced like a tragus or conch. They want to be pierced with a needle, not a gun, by a trained expert who takes them through a personalized consultation. And they’re looking for cute, high-quality earrings they can comfortably wear for the four to six months it takes for a new piercing to heal before they can swap jewelry.
We’re seeing Gen Z and younger Millennials drive much of the demand for personalized, identity-driven products. How has that shaped Studs’ product and service design?
We built our retail experience specifically for Gen Z and millennial consumers. Getting an ear piercing is fun and celebratory, and it’s often something people want to document and share. We designed our studios to be intentionally bright, modern and content-friendly with great lighting and mirrors because capturing content of the process is part of the ritual.
Bold and unexpected partnerships also play a big role in shaping how we meet these consumers where they are. We’ve collaborated with beloved national food brands like Din Tai Fung, Shake Shack and Van Leeuwen. And we’ve partnered with provocative internet personalities like Serena Kerrigan and DeuxMoi. These kinds of collaborations allow Studs to show up organically in the cultural conversations and viral obsessions that already resonate with Gen Z.
What lessons should other jewelry and accessories brands take from Claire’s decline? What pitfalls should they avoid?
Gen Z and millennial consumers won’t settle for outdated retail experiences. They expect expertise, transparency and environments that feel modern and intentional. They read reviews, watch videos, compare materials and look for brands that align with their values. If your retail experience is not evolving with how this generation shops, discovers and expresses themselves, you’re going to fall behind, regardless of your category.
What role do you see e-commerce and digital communities playing in an experience-based business like piercing?
Digital is really the front door for us. Most people find Studs online before they ever book, and that’s where the education begins: what a conch piercing is, how healing works, when to come in for a downsize, all of it. Social is also where our community lives and grows. People share their new piercings, ask questions about styling or healing advice and get inspired for how they might update their look next.
I often say that no one is getting piercings to have holes in their ears: the intention is to wear cute jewelry. For customers who may not live near a Studs Studio yet, they can still shop our earrings online and keep an eye on where we’re opening new locations soon. So even though the actual piercing can only happen in person, the ongoing connection—the learning, the inspiration, the shopping—all of that is happening digitally, too. It’s a natural omnichannel loop.
Customers increasingly approach piercing as a long-term, personalized form of self-expression rather than a one-time purchase. Photo by Tory Williams/Courtesy of Studs
How do you see the piercing and jewelry industry evolving over the next five years? What will separate the leaders from those who lag behind?
The industry will continue to professionalize. Consumers are asking for more transparency, clearer standards and deeper expertise. Brands that invest meaningfully in training, education and thoughtful design will be well-positioned. The companies that succeed will be the ones that create real connection and clarity for their customers and continually adapt to how people want to express themselves.
