The New York-based designer shares how music, art and authenticity shape her eponymous brand. Courtesy Nili Lotan
This Q&A is part of Observer’s Expert Insights series, where industry leaders, innovators and strategists distill years of experience into direct, practical takeaways and deliver clarity on the issues shaping their industries. In the ever-evolving world of fashion, Nili Lotan has built a career on intuition, authenticity and cultural resonance, redefining what luxury means for a modern audience.
As founder and creative director of her eponymous brand, Lotan has spent over two decades shaping a distinct design language rooted in music, art, and personal expression. From leading design at Ralph Lauren, Liz Claiborne and Nautica to launching her own label later in life, she has transformed instinct into strategy, balancing creative vision with commercial success. Today, her brand spans $100 million in annual revenue, boasts an all-women executive team and counts Kendall Jenner, Dakota Johnson and Frances McDormand among its devoted clientele.
Lotan’s approach to luxury emphasizes story, experience and authenticity over exclusivity. Her recent Fall 2025 campaign, debuting at New York’s legendary Café Carlyle and featuring a live performance by iconic rock duo The Kills, exemplifies her philosophy. By weaving music, community and culture into her launches, Lotan creates emotional resonance that extends far beyond garments, making each collection a lived experience for both her audience and clients.
From her Tribeca showroom to curated holiday collections, Lotan’s vision consistently marries elegance with ease, sustainability with timelessness and intuition with strategic foresight.
You’ve said your design process is deeply intuitive. How does intuition translate into strategy when building a brand that’s both commercially successful and culturally resonant?
I’ve always trusted my intuition, and that instinct guides both my design process and how I build the brand. For me, intuition is strategy—it’s about staying true to what feels honest and authentic. Each collection evolves instinctively from how I live, what I love and the visual world around me. Even as the company grows, personal integrity and thoughtfulness remain central. My intention is to create pieces that feel effortless and empowering—clothing that carries strength, confidence, sensuality and ease.
Luxury used to be defined by scarcity and price. What defines luxury today, in your view, and how has that changed how you design, market and lead your brand?
Luxury is about quality, honesty and practicality. Style is part of your identity—it’s self-expression and confidence. It starts with materials that age beautifully—from premium Japanese denim to luxury Italian wool and cotton. Fit is integral; there’s integrity in how something drapes, lasts and becomes part of one’s story.
The Kills perform live at Café Carlyle for Nili Lotan’s Fall 2025 campaign debut, embodying the attitude, intimacy and authenticity that shape her approach to modern luxury. Courtesy Nili Lotan
Your Fall 2025 campaign launch at Café Carlyle felt more like a cultural moment than a product launch. How do experiences like that shape the emotional connection to your brand?
That evening was about creating a space where my brand, designs and audience became part of one story. The Kills performed live, surrounded by friends, guests and rock and roll—because that’s the world I live in. When people experience a moment like that, it lingers. Wearing a piece from the collection means carrying the spirit and energy of that night, which is what makes the clothing resonate emotionally.
Music clearly plays a central role in your creative DNA. What can brands across industries learn from the storytelling power of music?
Fashion and music are in constant dialogue—both express who we are. Music carries attitude and emotion, and so does style. What speaks to me about rock and roll is the attitude behind it. It’s not so much about the music, but it’s that free spirit on stage, the fearlessness and the boldness that I’m drawn to and that inspire me. Clothes, like music, are an extension of self. Seventies rock and roll icons—Mick Jagger, Keith Richards, Jimi Hendrix—embody a spirit that is imbued in my collection, from Hendrix-inspired military band jackets to ruffled Jagger shirts. It’s about sophistication mixed with effortless cool, character and freedom. Authenticity always resonates.
From Ralph Lauren to your own label, you’ve witnessed the evolution of “American luxury.” Where do you think it’s heading next?
American fashion is at an exciting moment—it’s leading the conversation globally and inspiring designers around the world. I think that influence will continue to grow, shaping what luxury means today: authenticity, wearability and a sense of ease that feels distinctly American.
Fashion is increasingly data-driven. How do you balance intuition and analytics in creative and commercial decisions?
We absolutely look at the data—it’s a useful tool, and it gives us a clear picture of how women are responding to the collection. But at the end of the day, I always come back to intuition. My instincts have guided me my entire career. I take in the information, of course, but I design from what I love and what feels true. That balance is what shapes the future of the brand.
Lotan aims to stay commiteed to intuitive design, where every accessory feels lived-in, modern and emotionally resonant. Courtesy Nili Lotan
The direct-to-consumer model has transformed fashion retail. What’s working now, and what’s losing relevance?
DTC is essential, though I remain grateful to wholesale partners. Today, it’s not just about selling clothes—it’s about building a story, a connection to the world I’ve created. Clients want to experience the brand, both in person and digitally. I’m also excited about our first stores in Seoul—Hyundai Main and Hyundai COEX—bringing the brand to a dynamic, fashion-forward market while remaining authentic to my vision.
How do you think about longevity in both brand identity and product design?
Longevity begins with being deeply tuned in to the world around us. I stay aware of how women live, what they need and how their lives are evolving. That awareness, paired with authenticity, is what keeps a brand relevant over time.
Producing much of the collection in the U.S. gives me the freedom to respond quickly. It allows me to make decisions and execute them—creatively and commercially—with agility. That flexibility is essential in maintaining a brand that feels connected to the moment. At the core, longevity comes from timelessness. I design pieces that reflect a woman’s life, not a fleeting trend. And for the brand, staying true to my voice and vision—evolving, but always in an honest way—is what creates real continuity. Consistency is what endures.
Where do you see the greatest tension between creative vision and market reality today?
The greatest tension comes from the pressure to make more—more SKUs, bigger collections, constant newness and novelty. My instinct has always been toward minimalism, simplicity and sustainability. I believe a woman doesn’t need endless options; she needs the right ones. But the market often asks for more. Staying true to my creative vision means resisting excess and focusing on what feels essential, even when the commercial landscape pushes in the opposite direction.
Your career began in major fashion houses, but you launched your own brand later. How did that shape your leadership and approach to risk?
Working in major fashion houses gave me experience and perspective—I learned what works, what doesn’t and how to lead a team. By the time I launched my own brand, I felt more confident, more mature and ready to take creative risks on my own terms.
Named for one of the cultural touchstones that shape Lotan’s creative world, the Joni handbag embodies her philosophy: understated luxury with a story behind it. Courtesy Nili Lotan
Your handbags are named after musical icons. What role do cultural references play in making a product feel like luxury today?
Cultural references create emotion and resonance, connecting people to a feeling or era. Looking at the attitude of these iconic musicians, I communicate their style and energy in my design language.
Fashion brands increasingly position themselves as lifestyle curators. How do you extend the Nili Lotan world beyond clothing?
Extending the Nili Lotan world beyond clothing has always been instinctive for me. I’ve never seen the brand as just garments—it’s a visual and emotional universe shaped by the things I love, the places I live in and the sensibility I carry with me.
From my Tribeca showroom to all of my retail and residential spaces, every environment reflects my philosophy. I curate my stores the same way I curate my own homes with art on the walls, furniture I’m drawn to, textures and tones that feel honest to who I am. My world becomes the brand’s world.
I’m in direct conversation with the client—whether through the intimacy of our stores, the monthly playlists I share or the personal touch of my social media. All of it is part of inviting people into how I see and experience the world around me.
This season, I’ve extended that even further with a curated holiday story—an expression of what the holidays mean to me through both dressing and giving. At 183 Duane, we’re offering inspiration not only for how to dress for the season, but for how to give with intention.
